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12. december 2014Updated January 29, 2016 1:41 p.m
go throughWilliam Sitwell
In 1932, an Italian futurist named Filippo Tommaso Marinetti published a series of recipes in a book called The Futurist Cookbook. Among the dishes are "Colonial Fish Drum Rolls". The instructions read: "Poached mullet marinated for 24 hours in a sauce of milk, rose oil liqueur, capers and red pepper." Just before the fish is served, it is opened and filled with date jam, garnished with banana slices and pineapple slices. Then it is eaten with the continuous beating of the drum.
Marinetti's book is part of his outlandish manifesto to ban pasta - a tough campaign for any Italian. Spaghetti, he believed, would lead to pessimism and nostalgia and make you fat. So he offers his alternative recipe. Perhaps his favorite is the one sandwiched between "Surprise Banana" and "Tyrrhenian Seaweed Foam." He calls it: "The tactile vegetable garden". The salad here is eaten with the face buried in the plate, without the help of the hands, to inspire true taste, direct contact with the taste and texture of the green on the skin of cheeks and lips.'
The recipe further states that when diners lift their heads from their plates, waiters spray their faces with cologne. After that, "guests must let their fingertips enjoy their neighbor's pajamas without interruption" before taking another bite. Marinetti came to mind while interviewing Spanish chef Juan Mari Arzak. I have a lot of time to think. I'm at the ridiculously named Ametsa with Arzak Instruction (AWAI) in the private dining room of the Halkin Hotel in Belgravia.
Arzak's eponymous restaurant in San Sebastián is consistently ranked in the top ten of the world's best restaurants; it clearly honors the culinary heritage of the Basque Country and when he won the trophy the judges raved about, for example, Arzak was 'the first to open a culinary research laboratory' and was 'probably one of the first chefs in the world to use the scientific and experimental approach to "cooking".
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He is said to have continued to support the technologies he helped develop: techniques such as freeze-drying, dehydration and distillation.
it is true. When you plan to go to a restaurant, you look for all these fancy things on a chef's resume.
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Arzak's daughter Elena is in charge of AWAI. So this restaurant in London is a bit of a dud for her. Partly because it's overseen by her father (hence the name) and it's the only branch he's allowed anywhere. Somehow, as far as I know, it is a consultancy agreement between Arzak and hotelier Como, who is based in Singapore and owns a chain of luxury hotels around the world.
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In my research before the conference, I read the following quote from Arzak: "My goal: to prepare the author's cuisine, with a Basque flavor, green sauce, cod Pil-pil and cod 'kokotchas'. In short, to combine traditional cuisine with research to make it avant-garde." Dishes at the San Sebastián restaurant include "Hakefish and Bronze Onion," "Pineapple Bubbles," "Moon Rock" and "Campfire Bonito." Onion". So you can see why I think of Marinetti.
Because of the way the interview was conducted, I had time to think. Arzak barely speaks English, so I'm taken to this private dining room - like the main dining room, with giant golden dildos on the ceiling (they say test tubes, but not everyone thinks that when they see them) - accompanied by a publicist, a hotel worker who will translate, and two other cooks. I asked a question, which was translated, and Arzak spoke at length in his husky Spanish voice, asking for advice from his two burly chefs, both of whom interjected in Spanish. Then another guy said something else in Spanish and interpreted the text for me.
Unsurprisingly, I'm eager to know exactly what the main characters are saying, rather than an agreed quote thrown out by a Suit hotel guy translating. So I forced him to tell me what his answer to my question was. This created even more conversation where I kept thinking about the man and his story.
The restaurants he runs in Spain have been part of his life. In 1951, when he was nine, his father died and it was his grandparents' business, then his mother's. After military training, giving up trying to become an architect ("I wasn't very good at drawing," he says) and taking hospitality management courses, Arzak began working in the family business, mostly in the bakery department.
After taking power in the 1980s, he developed a more modern and experimental approach and created some of the aforementioned dishes. But unlike Marinetti, his concept is not a surrealist hoax – the dishes are real. You must eat everything. People have, including the Michelin guy who gave this place three stars in 1989. Meanwhile, one of my problems returns after a trip through the system. He opened this shop in London with his daughter. How does he feel about the dining environment in the capital?
This is obviously a matter of skill. I have been here before with these chefs. They came to London gushing about how much the culinary scene has changed over the last few decades, how exciting and diverse this place is, and that's why they opened here, or at least agreed to go the bonanza that comes with it. Fee consulting firm. "London has grown a lot," the lawsuit said. "Twenty years ago it wasn't a food reserve. Now that there are opportunities, it's a good place to develop concepts.
No shit, I thought. So what restaurants does he like here? While everyone was panicking, I found out that there was a crash. Conversations about the college challenge continued before the (Suits) captain told me, "He's a very good friend of Heston Blumenthal." Then several speeches and words like Gordon Ramsay, Murano, Pétrus were supported by the chef. When the answer comes, I will move on to another appetizer for 10 people. I wonder how he would define the Basque cuisine for which he is famous. Of course, this question is considered more magical. Conversation - minus the cumbersome translation tools - goes like this.
JMA: 'Arzak's food is very creative. Everything I do comes from my Basque roots and the DNA of Basque culture. The principle is that it is very traditionally Basque.
WS: 'Thank you. I understand, but what does that mean? What is Basque food? How is this expressed in your interpretation?
JMA: "The taste of Basque cuisine is recognized all over the world. The ingredients come from the Basque Country. It is a place with its own culture and language. The best ingredients we use are local.
WS: 'What are those ingredients? What are these things that define food in the Basque Country?
JMA: "The taste is light. The way they prepare the food is balanced. It's something very unique.
WS: 'Okay, but may I ask what the dishes and flavors are? What are the unique ingredients of the Basque Country that define your culinary tradition?
JMA: (he's out of breath at this point and I'm worried that the burly men might drag me out and beat me – or mix up a plate of "Deep Blue Duck" or "Bass with Veggie Confetti") "I've described what the whole interview was about!
Then he calmed down and came back with some more thoughtful thoughts. "I need to feel the emotions of all these dishes," he said. "Cooking for the Basques is like a religion, it comes from the heart."
Time to leave - actually I'm going to lunch and see the food for myself. He shook my hand very warmly and gave me his personal card as I left. "The best thing you can do in life is to do what you do best every day," he said. "The best restaurants are the ones that make the fewest mistakes. Remember, to be creative you have to think like a child, otherwise you might as well go home.
Despite our talk in interviews, one cannot help but develop a fondness for this experimental and humorous man. I can't wait for lunch.
William Sitwell is editor of Waitrose Kitchen
comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa
arzak.info
William Sitwell
@https://twitter.com/@WilliamSitwell
William Sitwell, restaurant critic for The Daily Telegraph, is a well-known food critic and author. In addition to his work as a writer and broadcaster, he also runs the world's smallest wine shop at www.williamshousewines.com
FAQs
What food is Basque country known for? ›
Basque cuisine refers to the cuisine of the Basque Country and includes meats and fish grilled over hot coals, marmitako and lamb stews, cod, Tolosa bean dishes, paprikas from Lekeitio, pintxos (Basque tapas), Idiazabal sheep's cheese, txakoli (sparkling white wine), and Basque cider.
What is Basque flavor? ›Created by our Culinary Department to evoke the warm Mediterranean sun of the Basque region of Spain, our Basque Seasoning Blend is a blend of sun-dried tomato powder, smoked paprika and other flavorful herbs and spices.
Where is Basque cuisine from? ›Basque food comes from the Basque Country (Euskadi or País Vasco), which is a region of northern Spain (culturally speaking, it also extends into France). It encompasses the provinces of Álava, Biscay, and Gipuzkoa, and the cities of Bilbao, San Sebastian, and Vitoria-Gasteiz, among others.
What is the most famous Basque dish? ›Iconic Bacalao Al Pil Pil is the most famous Basque dish. What is this? In fact, Basque cod in Pil Pil sauce is one of the most popular seafood dishes in Spain overall. The secret of this amazing Basque dish lies in the emulsification of Pil-Pil sauce.
Why is Basque so different from Spanish? ›Most non-native speakers will recognise Basque as different from Spanish because of its distinct consonants, whose pronunciation is closer to those of Slavic consonants. The vowels in Basque can sound similar to those in Spanish, but beyond a volume of borrowed words, the Basque language remains uniquely its own.
What is the famous drink in Basque Country? ›Picon Punch, or simply Picon, is a highball cocktail made with an Amaro liqueur, soda water, grenadine, a splash of lemon, and a bit of brandy floating on top. The drink is identified as Basque, but was created by Basque immigrants in the U.S. and taken back to the Basque region in the Pyrenees.
What do Basque drink? ›Basque cider, aka sagardoa (literally means apple wine) is a popular drink in the Basque Country . Cider becomes a celebration during the txotx season (when the new cider is welcomed). It is not like other European sweet ciders. Sagardoa is rather dry and acidic.
What is the national drink of Basque? ›Neighbors that once frequented the restaurant will stop into 15 Romolo for a Picon Punch, known as “the National drink of the Basques,” which is based on the obscure French orange bitter, Amer Picon.
What is Basque famous for? ›Basque families have made a living in both agricultural and fishing traditions for many years. Some say the Basques are hasierak or “mystery people” of Europe because although their presence has been speculated since prehistoric times, their origin is largely unknown.
Are Basque people German? ›The Basque people are a European ethnic group predominantly living in Spain and France. Basques refer to themselves as Euskaldunak, meaning "speakers of the language Euskara".
What ethnic groups are Basque Country? ›
The Basques (/bɑːsks/ or /bæsks/; Basque: euskaldunak [eus̺kaldunak]; Spanish: vascos [ˈbaskos]; French: basques [bask]) are a Southwestern European ethnic group, characterised by the Basque language, a common culture and shared genetic ancestry to the ancient Vascones and Aquitanians.
What kind of cheese is Basque? ›P'tit Basque is a 100% pure sheep's milk cheese produced in France's Basque region in the Pyrenees Mountains, the region that spans the border between France and Spain. Traditionally, it was handmade by shepherds from leftover curds set aside from milking their ewes.
What makes Basque different? ›Now, an international research team led by UPF has confirmed that the Basques' genetic uniqueness is the result of genetic continuity since the Iron Age, characterized by periods of isolation and scarce gene flow, and not its external origin in respect to other Iberian populations.
What do Basques look like? ›Physical characteristics of Basque people include flat noses with bumps, pale skin with dark hair, heights that are either very tall or very short, and very high concentrations of the very rare O negative blood type.
What religion are Basques? ›The Basques have a strong allegiance to Roman Catholicism. They were not converted to Christianity until the 10th century, however, and, although they are now among the most observant of Spanish Catholics, animism survives in their folklore.
What is the food capital of Basque Country? ›Great Escapes: San Sebastian, Basque Country's Culinary Capital.
What is a typical Basque wine? ›Txakoli (also called Txakolina, or Chacoli) is the traditional wine of the Basque region in northern Spain.
What is Basque called in Basque? ›In Basque, the name of the language is officially euskara (alongside various dialect forms). In French, the language is normally called basque, though euskara has become common in recent times. Spanish has a greater variety of names for the language.
What is a wine and Coke called? ›What's a Kalimotxo, aka Calimocho? The Kalimotxo is a drink that originated in Spain that's equal parts red wine and cola. It originated in the 1970's, apparently an invention of servers at a festival who were trying to cover up bad red wine.
How do you cheers in Basque? ›Topa! —> Cheers! Hementxe! —> Over / right here!
Can you drink the water in the Basque Country? ›
In other words, if you live in Burgos, you can enjoy the healthiest tap water in Spain for one of the cheapest prices paid. San Sebastian, located in the north of Spain in the Basque Country region, is the second Spanish city with the best quality water to come from its taps.
What does txakoli taste like? ›Regardless of which DOP your Txakoli comes from, the result is a dry, refreshing wine with lots of acidity and minerality. Its flavor profile often includes notes of citrus and green fruits, sometimes with notes of peach, pineapple, fresh herbs, and a zesty mineral finish.
What is the famous drink in Bilbao? ›Patxaran is one of the Basque Country's oldest drinks. It is a distilled liquor made from sloe berries that is traditionally drunk after a meal as a digestif.
What animal is a Basque? ›The Euskal Antzara is the Basque breed of domestic goose. It is raised for both meat and eggs. Ganders weigh 7–9 kg, geese about 1 kg less. The eggs are white and weigh at least 160 g.
Are Basque people friendly? ›Basque people love going out, enjoying nature, and doing different sports and exercises. They are also very friendly and like going out for some pintxos and a nice glass of wine.
Are Basque people Hispanic? ›The Basque people inhabit an area that is mostly within Spain, but also in Southern France. By definition, Hispanic means relative to Spain. Most Basques are Spanish, so they are Hispanic too. The Spanish Basque country has been part of Spain since the beginning.
Where do Basque people live in the US? ›They are mostly descendants of settlers from Spain and Mexico, with a number from other parts of Hispanic America. Other significant Basque populations in the United States are located in Reno, Nevada, the San Francisco Bay Area, and the Central Valley region of California.
Are Basque and Irish related? ›Studies based on the Y chromosome genetically relate the Basques with the Celtic Welsh, and Irish; Stephen Oppenheimer from the University of Oxford says that the current inhabitants of the British Isles have their origin in the Basque refuge during the last Ice age.
Did the Basques discover America? ›Chronicles of the period indicate that Basques first came to North America in 1517, only seventeen years before French explorer, Jacques Cartier; however, some historians suggest they made the journey before Christopher Columbus in 1492.
Is Basque Caucasian? ›The first and oldest one considers that the Caucasians migrated westwards to the Pyrenean area during remote ages, what would mean that the Basques are descendants of the Caucasian immigrants.
Is Basque a Mexican? ›
Basque Mexicans (Spanish: vasco-mexicanos or simply vasco, Euskara: euskal-mexikar) are Mexicans of full, partial, or predominantly Basque ancestry, or Basque-born persons living in Mexico. Seen in Mexico by the whole Euskalerria concept, Basque descendants can be from Navarre, Euskadi or Iparralde.
Which state has the most Basque people? ›- California: 17,598.
- Idaho: 8,196.
- Nevada: 5,056.
- Oregon: 3,162.
- Washington: 2,579.
- Texas: 2,389.
- Colorado: 2,216.
- Florida: 1,653.
The Basque language is completely unrelated not only to Spanish, but to any other known language. There are many theories about how the Basque language developed, but its true origins are a mystery. The Basque language, also called Euskara, is incredibly important to the Basque people.
What is the Basque region best known for? ›The Basque Country is famous for its beaches and scintillating modern architecture…and for its feisty, industrious natives.
What is the Basque culture known for? ›Basque Culture. The Basque Country is a territory of traditions and culture. It is known for its fêtes and festivals which take place all year round. Over and above the folklore aspect, Basque Country dance is a way of saluting or thanking somebody or solemnising a religious or social event.
Why do Basques look different? ›The results show that the Basques' genetic makeup is similar to other populations of Western Europe but with slight differences. These differences are due to a scarce gene flow as of the Iron Age, i.e., less mixing has occurred with other populations.
Who are Basques descended from? ›They are thought to have descended from Neolithic farmers long before the Roman invasion of the Iberian peninsula, and they maintained their distinct language, identity, and culture largely due to their geographic isolation — the area in which they live is largely rough, mountainous terrain.
What is the most beautiful part of the Basque Country? ›Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Right at the confluence of the Nive and Laurhibar rivers stands Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, one of the most beautiful villages in the Basque Country.
What do you drink in a Basque Country? ›Basque cider, aka sagardoa (literally means apple wine) is a popular drink in the Basque Country . Cider becomes a celebration during the txotx season (when the new cider is welcomed). It is not like other European sweet ciders. Sagardoa is rather dry and acidic.
What is the Basque body type? ›Physical characteristics of Basque people include flat noses with bumps, pale skin with dark hair, heights that are either very tall or very short, and very high concentrations of the very rare O negative blood type.
What religion is Basque culture? ›
The Basques have a strong allegiance to Roman Catholicism. They were not converted to Christianity until the 10th century, however, and, although they are now among the most observant of Spanish Catholics, animism survives in their folklore.
What are people from Basque called? ›The Basques (/bɑːsks/ or /bæsks/; Basque: euskaldunak [eus̺kaldunak]; Spanish: vascos [ˈbaskos]; French: basques [bask]) are a Southwestern European ethnic group, characterised by the Basque language, a common culture and shared genetic ancestry to the ancient Vascones and Aquitanians.
What is a Basque that came to America? ›Chronicles of the period indicate that Basques first came to North America in 1517, only seventeen years before French explorer, Jacques Cartier; however, some historians suggest they made the journey before Christopher Columbus in 1492. Whatever the case, the sixteenth century marked the golden era of Basque fishing.
What is Basque Country called in Spanish? ›It is frequently known as Spanish Basque Country (País Vasco español in Spanish).
Who owns Basque Country? ›It's the Bay of Biscay side of Spain and France that we're talking about – where the two countries meet on the western side of the Pyrénées. There are 7 provinces making up the Basque Country: 4 are in Spain and 3 are in France. The 4 provinces in Spain are Vizcaya, Alava, Guipúzcoa and Navarra.